We took a bus to Hakone and hung out in a spa the likes of which I have only seen in movies. The natural hot springs steamed and we sat in rock tubs with views of green mountains and misty skies. mothers took their children from one tub to another, and grandmothers came along, too. Some people had massages, and everyone generally relaxed and enjoyed one an other's company.
We had a wonderful dinner and we are all looking forward to coming home. If you are reading this and you are able to let me know that you read the blog at all, it would be helpful us to know whether it worked as intended (keeping friends/family in touch). Please just send a comment saying "I read it" if you have not commented yet?
Seeya at the airport!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Zen & An Almost Sayonara Dinner, a Day Late
Dad used to say “people are people,” and there were many times in my life when that statement has seemed absurdly reductionist, especially considering the source. Now that our trip is nearing the end, and the creamy taste of real green tea seems to sit on my tongue, I know what my over-educated father meant. Or I think I do. Japanese people have the same emotions and feelings that we do, of course, but they also have very different customs. A tired Japanese looks just like a tired American, and a rebellious teenager: also the same. I could go on, but you get the gist. A woman pecking down the street in 4-inch heels looks as uncomfortable in Kyoto as she does in New York.
We are a tired group of travelers but also a fine group of people. It has made the trip more meaningful to interpret what's going on, share food, and discuss experiences with a varied group of teachers from Boston. Excuse me for saying this here, but teachers rock. Everyone's offering to wait, help out, loan a few bucks, give an idea. One traveler, Karen, took a couple of years of Japanese in college and has bravely helped out when our Japanese speakers haven't been around. Carolyn is our intrepid photographer, and Steve actually made a film at his school and brought it all the way here for a school in Kyoto. Those are just a few examples if the generosity we have seen. Also, the teachers bathing naked in hot Japanese bath thing is fun, as is trying out the many forms of sweets here. Green tea ice cream mixed with vanilla is delish.
This morning we visited a Buddhist temple and practiced meditation. The practice was particularly meaningful for me because I tend to be a worrier, but I also practice yoga with an astute teacher who has helped me a lot in a short amount of time. Both Agnes and I found that the second meditation seemed remarkably short. The monk said that because we practice yoga, we had already learned some of the fundamentals of Zen – emptying the mind of worries. The monk showed up at out Sayonara dinner in a t-shirt and jeans. He looked a lot different!
Sayonara dinner funny trip moments from my excellent table: Carolyn saying “oregami” to Japanese people (when she was tired one day) instead of the proper word for thank you. One of our trip leaders trying so hard to rush past the train bar as it came down that he almost lost his hat; One visitor to my room comparing my unsightly mess to my Gemma's remarkable organization; and many others.
We are a tired group of travelers but also a fine group of people. It has made the trip more meaningful to interpret what's going on, share food, and discuss experiences with a varied group of teachers from Boston. Excuse me for saying this here, but teachers rock. Everyone's offering to wait, help out, loan a few bucks, give an idea. One traveler, Karen, took a couple of years of Japanese in college and has bravely helped out when our Japanese speakers haven't been around. Carolyn is our intrepid photographer, and Steve actually made a film at his school and brought it all the way here for a school in Kyoto. Those are just a few examples if the generosity we have seen. Also, the teachers bathing naked in hot Japanese bath thing is fun, as is trying out the many forms of sweets here. Green tea ice cream mixed with vanilla is delish.
This morning we visited a Buddhist temple and practiced meditation. The practice was particularly meaningful for me because I tend to be a worrier, but I also practice yoga with an astute teacher who has helped me a lot in a short amount of time. Both Agnes and I found that the second meditation seemed remarkably short. The monk said that because we practice yoga, we had already learned some of the fundamentals of Zen – emptying the mind of worries. The monk showed up at out Sayonara dinner in a t-shirt and jeans. He looked a lot different!
Sayonara dinner funny trip moments from my excellent table: Carolyn saying “oregami” to Japanese people (when she was tired one day) instead of the proper word for thank you. One of our trip leaders trying so hard to rush past the train bar as it came down that he almost lost his hat; One visitor to my room comparing my unsightly mess to my Gemma's remarkable organization; and many others.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Post by Steve Levin
Beyond Words
SOMETIMES things can not be adequately expressed or described with mere words.
Thus far, on our journey in Japan, there have been several things- people, places nad events, that defy description- words do not do them justice. For me, these are a few:
* The incredible sound of a gazillion cicadas chirping ion the trees. The noise is so loud that at first we could nopt believe that it was being made by insects
* The openness and friendliness of the Japanese people we have met. They have all been so kind, so gentle, and their warmth just radiates from their beings.
*The serenity, holiness and sense of piety at the Buddhist and Shinto ceremonies we have witnessed and have taken part in
* The incredible Ms. Miyoko Matsubara who survived the A-bomb devestation, and whose courage in telling her story was breathtaking
* The overwhelming sadness of the Hiroshma Peace Memorial Museum
* The incredibly crowded subways that run like clockwork and that can take you anywhere in this country
* The cleanliness of the Japanese cities- populations ion the millions- with no litter. no populations ion the millions- with no litter. no graffitti, no tagging, anywhere that I could see
* The delightful and beautriful children we have met who seem fascinated by us tourists, who love to have their pictures taken , always smiling, and who want a peaceful world
* The master tea maker whose family has been making tea for over 5 genertions and whose dedication to his work transcends the material world which consumes our society and speaks to what is truly important in life. He does not use a cell phone or a computer and teaches his students and children the value and pleasure of putting his heart, mind and body into his work.
These are just a few, and as we move on, I am certain that there will be even more people,places and events that simply defy description.
Til then
Steve
Green Tea and Contradictions
Obviously my labeling has not been the strength of this blog so I will try to do better this morning with my allotted 20 minutes on my Japanese keyboard. Yesterday morning we went to visit a champion tea master. He is a 15th generation tea master! His shop is in Uji, near Nara, so we took a bus there from Kyoto and watched rice paddies whiz by - oh now Peter Gilmartin, our Primary Source leader, has saved me and I am on my actual laptop (long story) so I can speed-type some info here without switching to Japanese every other word, which was culturally interesting but also a total hassle.
Right. The tea master. We clearly are all lacking in some sort of internal work ethic. This guy had to get 100% on ten tests before his father would consider getting him one toy. He began to study tea at age three. When making the tea, one concentrates completely on the tea, the art of making it, and does not clutter one's brain with other matters so that the tea itself is the best possible. We learned from a champion! In honoring this tradition and doing only this one thing so well, he lives a good life.
After that visit we were able to visit a Buddhist shrine where the theme of the many generations continued. We were able to go up on the Dias of the Toda-ji Temple, where there is an enormous Great Buddha. It is 49 feet high, made of bronze. The priest who gave is our tour told us that one curl on the buddha's head was the size of a helmet!
The concept of living in a place where one's ancestors lived so many many years ago is alien to me and to many of us on the trip. It is a theme that keeps coming up as we visit places where people speak of their ancestors and their lives here. The contrast between that and the high fashion, the wildly contemporary Kyoto mall and open-air space across from our hotel, and the fashionable people who we see all over everywhere is striking. Many of the teenagers wear shirts with English on them, and in the shops it is hard to find a t-shirt with Japanese characters. Malls are everywhere. Sound familiar?
Today we are going to have a Zen experience. I am not sure what the Zen experience is, but that is the story. Also, we are visiting Nijo Castle. The castles are such fun - nothing comparable at home except in the movies. We are also visiting a school. We are going by chartered bus so it feels a bit like one of those tours with people looking out the window all day, but I am confident that our intrepid guides will have us walking quickly - in the Japanese style - all over the place!
Right. The tea master. We clearly are all lacking in some sort of internal work ethic. This guy had to get 100% on ten tests before his father would consider getting him one toy. He began to study tea at age three. When making the tea, one concentrates completely on the tea, the art of making it, and does not clutter one's brain with other matters so that the tea itself is the best possible. We learned from a champion! In honoring this tradition and doing only this one thing so well, he lives a good life.
After that visit we were able to visit a Buddhist shrine where the theme of the many generations continued. We were able to go up on the Dias of the Toda-ji Temple, where there is an enormous Great Buddha. It is 49 feet high, made of bronze. The priest who gave is our tour told us that one curl on the buddha's head was the size of a helmet!
The concept of living in a place where one's ancestors lived so many many years ago is alien to me and to many of us on the trip. It is a theme that keeps coming up as we visit places where people speak of their ancestors and their lives here. The contrast between that and the high fashion, the wildly contemporary Kyoto mall and open-air space across from our hotel, and the fashionable people who we see all over everywhere is striking. Many of the teenagers wear shirts with English on them, and in the shops it is hard to find a t-shirt with Japanese characters. Malls are everywhere. Sound familiar?
Today we are going to have a Zen experience. I am not sure what the Zen experience is, but that is the story. Also, we are visiting Nijo Castle. The castles are such fun - nothing comparable at home except in the movies. We are also visiting a school. We are going by chartered bus so it feels a bit like one of those tours with people looking out the window all day, but I am confident that our intrepid guides will have us walking quickly - in the Japanese style - all over the place!
Monday, August 3, 2009
Time & Place & Island Babies
Konbambwa. Good evening. This evening, on the eleventh - outdoor - floor of a stunning building reminiscent of the star ship in the original Star Wars movie, looking across at the moon, and down at colorful sculptures and moving escalators, I felt unsure of myself in time. We have moved quickly through so many places, people, and experiences. Tofu skin and tofu custard; train after train after train; the swirling architecture of a private Protestant school. Broad streets and cigarette smoke. At certain moments I forget where I am, then remember Oh! Japan! Then again, Oh! Kyoto! Or tomorrow, Nara. At this point I cannot remember which little souvenirs I have bought for family members and friends and I certainly cannot sequence the trip without my itinerary next to me. Naturally I do not have it right now! Yet I am here with my dear teaching partner, looking at Japanese pickles in small stores, learning and relearning Japanese phrases, and spending time with an excellent crowd of people.
Our main guides, Mari and Jonathan, are remarkably conscientious, knowledgeable, and kind. Mari is Japanese and Jonathan is from the states. They now live in Pennsylvania, but they also conduct tours. They have found us opportunities to do many activities that were only available because of Mari's many friends. A few nights ago, before a traditional Japanese feast, she told us a Japanese creation story. The islands were born when two spirits decided to create a family. "She said his name, and then he said her name." Eventually there were 8 babies, like the 8 islands. It was a detailed folktale and she had over 20 people rapt listening to her tell it.
Japanese hospitality: The concierge allowed me into a spare room on a separate floor so I could communicate a bit more with you. Aregatu Goziemas. Thank you very much.
Our main guides, Mari and Jonathan, are remarkably conscientious, knowledgeable, and kind. Mari is Japanese and Jonathan is from the states. They now live in Pennsylvania, but they also conduct tours. They have found us opportunities to do many activities that were only available because of Mari's many friends. A few nights ago, before a traditional Japanese feast, she told us a Japanese creation story. The islands were born when two spirits decided to create a family. "She said his name, and then he said her name." Eventually there were 8 babies, like the 8 islands. It was a detailed folktale and she had over 20 people rapt listening to her tell it.
Japanese hospitality: The concierge allowed me into a spare room on a separate floor so I could communicate a bit more with you. Aregatu Goziemas. Thank you very much.
Yikes no Time in Kyoto
Dear Readers,
I am on a computer in the lobby of a swank Kyoto hotel and I have about 19 minutes and the language keeps switching to Japanese. We went to Hiroshima yesterday and heard from a survivor. That was a moving experience beyond words. I recommend that you look it up on the web and read some of the writings that heads of state have written in response to the museum there. We stayed in a Buddhist monastery and some people made too much noise - I certainly was not part of that group - we observed their services - and we partook of their vegetarian fare. We hung out at a local fair and ate octopus balls. No! Not that! Ocｔopus pieces like melon balls！ Oh dear. We also played games and met people.
Today we came to Kyoto and visited two schools. At the elementary school, we participated on a tea ceremony and the children were utterly dear, taking great care to do every mover very precisely,and then bravely speaking with us and answering questions. Now I must go. Please expect brief communications as my access is limited．All are well and getting along famously.
I am on a computer in the lobby of a swank Kyoto hotel and I have about 19 minutes and the language keeps switching to Japanese. We went to Hiroshima yesterday and heard from a survivor. That was a moving experience beyond words. I recommend that you look it up on the web and read some of the writings that heads of state have written in response to the museum there. We stayed in a Buddhist monastery and some people made too much noise - I certainly was not part of that group - we observed their services - and we partook of their vegetarian fare. We hung out at a local fair and ate octopus balls. No! Not that! Ocｔopus pieces like melon balls！ Oh dear. We also played games and met people.
Today we came to Kyoto and visited two schools. At the elementary school, we participated on a tea ceremony and the children were utterly dear, taking great care to do every mover very precisely,and then bravely speaking with us and answering questions. Now I must go. Please expect brief communications as my access is limited．All are well and getting along famously.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Blog from Agnes
So many stories... Yesterday on the bullet train, I saw two kids making origamis. I said: "Origami" and smiled. Next thing, the little boy comes to give me an origami of a ciccada. He has fun showing me the "special" feature. If you push the center, it pops open its wings. I sat next to them and we started teaching each other numbers and colors in Japanese and English. The mother came and I showed pictures of my family. As they left, the boy extended his hand to shake mine, and his sister extended her left hand. Then they all stood outside of the train, looked for my window seat and waved, raised thumbs up until we took off.
Last night, I sat naked in a hot bath having a polite conversation with a naked Japanese lady and her daughter.
Yesterday, I walked along an older woman as we exited the buddhist ceremony. Lots of bowing and smiled.
I never expected that I would have so many opportunities to speak with people in my "motto chotto" vocabulary.
Sayonarafor now, and lots of love to my family: Edrick, Anna, Anya, and Nica.
Last night, I sat naked in a hot bath having a polite conversation with a naked Japanese lady and her daughter.
Yesterday, I walked along an older woman as we exited the buddhist ceremony. Lots of bowing and smiled.
I never expected that I would have so many opportunities to speak with people in my "motto chotto" vocabulary.
Sayonarafor now, and lots of love to my family: Edrick, Anna, Anya, and Nica.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)